Weeks 16 and 17: Northern Laos

November 18 through November 28

"Three weeks in Laos? But there's nothing else to do but visit Vientiane, Luang Prabang, and the Plain of Jars!", Debra's father commented before we left for Laos. Indeed, many do not venture beyond those 3 sites as there is little electricity, and unpredictable roads and lodging. Yet, we decided to take the road "less traveled" and headed from Luang Prabang into the northern regions of Laos.

loading... Truckin'

The Road Less Traveled

You see, in northern Laos, the buses are not really buses; the roads are barely roads; and when there are not roads, you can take a boat up the river to get even further from modern civilization.

As we arrived at the Luang Prabang "bus" station we quickly learned that when Lao people use the word "bus" they really mean "converted chinese pick-up truck with benches to make your butt really sore". But with no other means of transportation in our direction, we climbed aboard and set out with our fellow travellers--a dozen locals, several sacks of rice, and some birds in a small cage crammed into the rear or standing on the bumper--up towards the riverside village of Nong Khiaw, set amidst stunning limestone cliffs and narrow valleys. The fact that the road was only partially paved, featured plenty of king-sized pot holes, and had occasional large rocks for the driver to avoid, added to the adventure. We even had the unique opportunity to witness the national pastime--roadside automotive repair--when the put-put-puttering truck called it quits half way to our destination. Thirty minutes later we were on our way again, bumping along the dusty road sharing smiles and laughs with the locals. Clearly it was a typical day on the "bus" for them.

loading... Boating up the Nam Ou River Further north of Nong Khiaw we were told that the roads were worse than what we'd already experienced. So, we caught a local boat going up the Nam Ou river to Muang Khoa through more limestone cliff scenery for a far less bumpy and peaceful journey upstream (though wood benches in the boat made for a tender tush as well). This time we were joined by a few locals, two other travellers, and a pet monkey. The slowgoing speed, droaning humm of the motor, and six hour length of the trip lulled us all into a semi-meditative state amongst the calm of the river and its scenery--even the monkey curled up and took a nap.

loading... Bailing..water or us? Then with a giant lurch the serenity came to a sudden end. Debra saw wooden floorboards crack beneath her feet and quickly found herself in six inches of water which was continuing to rise. The captain was yelling instructions that only the engine man could understand. The engine quit and the boat came to a rest before rolling softly to the right and off the submerged rock that we had hit. We began floating back down stream while continuing to sink. Kevin grabbed everyone's bags and put them up on the roof. The captain steered towards the shore and reached out to grasp branches of trees to pull us in further. The engine man bailed water as quickly as he could with his 1 liter canister. Kevin tried to clammer up to the roof of the boat only to be held back by the monkey who had latched itself to his leg. With another lunge, the monkey's leash broke free and Kevin and monkey landed on the roof. The other passengers helped grab ahold of more branches, with the hull of the boat now nearly half submersed. The boat listed to the right and one of our bags slipped off the flat roof, plunging into the river (Debra thought that Kevin was trying to throw the bags 15 feet to the shore!) The engineman fetched the bag with a long bamboo pole before it was swept downstream, then quicky returned to bail water. Debra eyed the muddy water thinking through the best swimming routes to shore as she stood on the benches with the waters now covering her Tevas. Everyone pulled branches, pushed poles, and paddled with what they could find until we came to rest in a foot of water along the shore.

Safe for the moment, our attention turned to the fact that the sun was going down, and we did not want to be marooned for the night. The crew set to work hammering bits of oily cloth and rope into the cracks in the floorboards. Several of us went a few yards upstream and luckily waved down a passing speed boat that graciously stopped to lend a hand. The crew worked hard to repair our boat, but ultimately sent us on our way with the speed boat to assure that we arrived before nightfall. We pulled into Muong Khoa as dusk fell on the village, hoping for the wellfare of the crew that sent us forward without them.

The next morning we decided that we'd had enough of the river, so we rejoined the road for two more days of "bus" travel (with the traditional hour-and-a-half road side repair stop in the middle of nowhere) to the Luang Namtha valley where we planned to spend Thanksgiving.

loading... Deb and Kev helping with the harvest loading... Thanksgiving Dinner at the Boat Landing

Thanksgiving, Laos Style

Determined to lay-off the "roughing it" itinerary for a few days we checked into the Boat Landing Guesthouse, 6km south of Luang Namtha town's center. The quiet, riverside, traditional style bungalows with their solar powered hot showers were a welcome return to the simple luxuries we left behind in Luang Prabang. We decided to stay for a while--not only for the comforts, good food, and friendly staff, but also to explore the various ethnic villages (Hmong, Black Tai, Lanten, Akka) within the valley and surrounding hills.

Thanksgiving Day, we joined the proprietor's family in the nearby rice fields to help gather rice from the harvest. After a few hours of helping in the fields, we returned to the Boat Landing where the family had prepared a full Thanksgiving Dinner for the guests, the local United Nations volunteers, and the Luang Namtha Eco Tourism Project staff. And yes...they have turkey in Lao, though they are so skinny we thought they were chickens! And though the sweet potatoes, baked apples, garlic bread, string beans and green salad were all of different varities than we might find in the U.S., the meal was a great taste of home for the two of us who had presumed we'd be eating noodles on the 22nd of November. (We'd also like to give an extra special thanks to Bill who made our stay extra special with his friendly advice and giving nature.)

loading... Akka Girls loading... Akka Girls

Akka Village and Jungle Trekking

Through the Luang Namtha Eco Tourism Project, we hired guides to take us on a three-day, two-night trek through the primary jungle to stay in two Akka villages acessible only by foot. The interaction with the colorful and friendly Akka people was a clear highpoint of our northern Laos adventures. The local children taught Debra to say "Ami-Akka. Te-Shu-te-na" which she practiced and repeated making the children laugh and laugh. It turned out that Debra was saying that SHE was an Akka person and THEY were the foreigners!--No wonder the kids thought it was funny! (At least we weren't saying "my mother looks like a wild boar!" though that would have made them laugh too).

We wrapped up our adventues in Laos with a thirty-five minute thrill ride on Laos Air (thankfully no mid-air repairs to report here) to the border town of Houaxai where we crossed the Mekong River and returned to Thailand.

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More pictures from Laos...
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What's next?

We're exploring northern Thailand for two weeks before catching up with Debra's father in Hong Kong and China in mid-December. Happy Holidays to you all!